Out and about with my new pal Gerard!

I made a Gerard!

I've been swooning over the Gerard coat pattern by République du Chiffon ever since I first saw the various wonderful versions of the pattern by Jolies Bobines; to me it seemed like the perfect coat pattern: smart yet slouchy at the same time.

But I thought "well, of course I could never make a coat, that's only for real sewers and not pretendy ones like me".

I also remember at the Belgian/Dutch sewing blogger meet up in January how impressed I was by the number of people who had made their own coat. It sort of became my personal mission to make a coat by the end of 2014 (whoo for setting self-imposed challenges for no reason at all).

Then, along came the Sew it Up challenge in May where I made the La Maison Victor 'Jackie' jacket which I was pretty proud of. It was a good warm up for making a coat! I had actually initially planned to make the Gerard pattern for the personal style challenge but as I never got that far in the competition (sniff sniff) and summer weather beckoned I put making a coat on the back burner.

But with autumn well and truly here, October was the month I finally got round to getting on with my very own Gerard. And I'm so pleased with it!





I like the pattern just as much as I anticipated and luckily the size is fine - I just cut a straight size small and didn't even consider making any adjustments beforehand - the style of the pattern is pretty forgiving in terms of fitting so you can afford to take a gamble really - a huge part of its appeal!

And, as I had so much of the fabric and lining I used for my Jackie jacket left I just used exactly the same combination. One, because I had so much left it made sense to use it up, and two, because I really like the combination!



Main think I learnt: how to sew a tailored collar. Result! Unfortunately, this means I am now obsessed with staring at the topstitching on coat lapels everywhere I go. Sorry in advance for staring at your collar while you are speaking to me. I'm listening really.

(I also learnt which side of a coat you are supposed to put the buttons on - mainly because I got them the wrong way round this time! Oh well, doesn't seem to make that much of a difference!)



Also, it is worth highlighting that the instructions accurately state that two-thirds of the time taken to make the coat are on preparing the pattern pieces and cutting out. So be ready to put the time in before you even get to your sewing machine. Not always easy when you are itching to start sewing. The instructions are pretty easy to follow although probably not for beginners.





I'd like to make this again in a thicker wool for a cosier version. I'd try to do a better job on the cutting and getting a cleaner finish. But I'm pretty pleased with it for a first go at this type of project!

At some point I'll try a more complicated coat pattern in terms of fit. But for now I'm happy with Gerard!

I was sewing this just as the second round of Sew it Up started so I'll consider this as my sew-a-long entry for the coat week! If you're not following and voting yet, make sure you take a look at the lovely garments the contestants are making. So far Lieke's orange coat is my favourite!

She wore (black) velvet

 



Here is the result of some experimental sewing!

This dress in black fine velvet was initially meant to be a version of the BHL Anna dress. But as it proved so difficult to cut out the pattern pieces when the fabric would not stop sliding about all over the place, in the end I opted to just eyeball cutting the bodice pieces into something that loosely resembled the Anna bodice pieces and sew them up as they were and hope for the best.

I decided not to add any darts or pleats and fit the bodice by gathering at the neckline.

I then added a simple gathered skirt and fit the garment at the centre back seam by cutting away the excess and adding a zip.

It could have been a disaster but the sewing gods were on my side and luckily I'm really pleased with the result. This was one of those satisfying projects that takes just one whole day (with a break for a tea on a sunny terrace) from start to finish. I really love it as it's super comfy and I'll wear it for lots of different occasions.

I was really determined to use up this black velvet as I'd got it out several times to think about what to do with it but could never settle on an idea. I got a few metres of it for a very good price at a fabric sale at Le Caméléon Coquet on Place Van Meenen in Saint-Gilles - a gallery/shop/workshop that specialises in Japanese paper and fabric. It is quite a mysterious place but opens every so often for fabric sales, otherwise I think you have to make an appointment.

It's lovely fabric but I'm definitely looking forward to sewing with something sturdier now though!

You can't see so well in the photos but there is some interesting detailing on the fabric.

Self-drafted in September

September was a busy month - a trip to Palestine, amongst other things, kept me away from my sewing machine.
But this dress was one good sewing achievement this month. It is a self-drafted pattern based on a mix of features rubbed off of existing garments I own.

To say I'm happy with this dress would be an understatement - I love when you make something that reminds you why you started to make your own clothes in the first place. And the fabric - I'm not actually sure how to describe it! It hangs well, it is a synthetic mix of sorts but it is comfortable and breathable to wear - and it is a lovely shade of deep orange, oh and there are TEAPOTS all over it. I bought it a few months ago at the Marché des Abattoirs in Anderlecht.

I love the shape of this dress - it is kind of everything I could want, it feels dressed up and dressed down at the same time, it's comfy and loosefitting yet there is a lot of 'structure' going on, with the front bodice waist yoke panel, the peplum bit and the split flappy sleeves. And did I mention the teapots already?

I also have to mention this amazing Coletterie 'How to sew a baby hem' tutorial. Without being too dramatic, learning this technique was one of this month's highlights for me. Looking forward to a future full of fearless hemming.

Now for an avalanche of photos of me prancing around in the street...

An autumnal make (Red Ponti Roma Vogue 8977)

Say hello to my first make as part of the White Tree Fabrics blogger team. I'm really happy with it; perfect for autumn's (early) arrival here in Belgium.

The pattern is V8977 and the fabric is red Ponti Roma. I was drawn to view C on the packet as I thought it was the type of item lacking in my wardrobe.

I sewed it up mostly on my overlocker (but my sewing machine was used for the darts, the front neckline pleat basting, the sleeve gathering, the neckline binding, and for attaching the back strap and the cuffs). It was also the first time I used my overlocker's blind hem foot. This tutorial greatly helped me work out how to use the thing.

I didn't know what to expect from this pattern/fabric combination and I couldn't be more happy with it. I'll wear this a lot over trousers or thick tights in winter when I want to be cosy. I'd recommend this pattern if you want a loose fitting easy make that can be made interesting with the right fabric, and you can make it more interesting in the detailing: instead of using the strap piece at the back you could make two ties; you could mix up the buttons; or shorten/change the style of the sleeves.

But I'd say if you prefer something more fitted then this pattern might not be for you.

As for the fabric, it is so soft, hangs so nicely, and is just the right thickness. I've already washed it a few times and it seems to be holding up well so far.




Detail shots:








(buttons from Veritas)

Would you make a dress/top like this?

Ok, I'm off to dream of autumn sun and listen to Mr Tembo.

Moving day!

Don't worry I'm not going far, just to my own url. No packing required!
This blog should now automatically redirect to: www.belgianseams.be

See you there!

Hello, dolly!

Hello! I'm back in Belgium after a lovely trip to Scotland. This is just a quick post to show you some things I've acquired of late and to announce the winner of the Sparrow top pattern.

First up, say hello to my new dressmakers dummy! I had never considered getting one before, but when I saw an advert from a girl who was selling a handful of them round the corner from me it seemed like too good an opportunity to miss. I'm not that interested in draping at the moment but it could be something I get into in the future, who knows. For now she (any name ideas?) will mostly be used for decorative purposes.

Next, it is my overlocker! I got this a few months ago but I have yet to post a picture of my latest shiny piece of equipment. So far so good, and I'm really glad I saved up my pennies and invested in one. The model is a Janome Jubilee 60789 and I bought it in Espace Machines à Coudres on Chausée d'Ixelles. I would highly recommend this shop as they are really friendly and when you buy a machine you can then schedule in a free workshop where they help you out with any problems you are having getting to grips with your machine!



I also made a protective dustcover for it using some oilcoth bought in Leuven from Habiba on a mini blogger meetup. The cover was made using more or less the same method as the one I used to make a cover for my sewing machine. Don't they look cute together?




And thirdly...the winner of the Sparrow pattern from Liola Patterns is...Irena from Koffie en Koekskes. Well done, Irena! I will contact you to get your email address and send it over to you.

You can see the draw here:






And finally... look at these amazing labels my Mum gave me as a birthday present!
I was so surprised, can't wait to sew them into my handmade items! :)

Shiny summer Sureau

I used the leftover brushed satin from my République du Chiffon Viviane dress to make a Deer & Doe Sureau dress wearable muslin.



Only modification I made was an SBA following my method. Next time I'll bring the whole thing up a bit by taking out some excess fabric at the shoulder seams as it gapes a bit.



I really like the dress but while it is a wearable muslin in terms of fit and how it looks, in terms of how it feels I'm not going to be wearing cheap brushed satin against my skin anytime soon, at least not in the summer heat. Also, probably why I'm not rushing to wear the Viviane I made either.



I'd wanted to make this pattern for a while after admiring other versions online and I wasn't disappointed. It's simple yet really well cut and teaches you about gathering if you've not dipped your toe in that pond much before. My gathering is decidedly dodgy in places.

Next up, a version with sleeves, maybe in chambray, hmmm?




Hope everyone is having a happy summer! I'm off to Scotland to see my family tomorrow! Celebratory roof dance!