One (pair of) cigarette (pants) in the non-smoker's tray


Just casually hanging around, you know.

I worked on these trousers for a very very long time! I think it was in November/December last year when I started drafting my own trouser block and then doing various trial and error toiles to experiment with fit. I worked on them on and off and, voila enfin, they are done!

I used pinstripe suiting fabric that I’d used before for this dungaree dress in 2017. I had originally bought the fabric with some ‘cigarette pants‘-style trousers like these in mind so I’m glad I finally got them out of my head and through the sewing machine! The fabric is a wool/blend suiting and comes from Gold Fingers on Boulevard Anspach.

I’m not 100% happy with the fit – I think they could be a little less snug in the thighs but it’s also because I’m not used to wearing trousers – I feel so strapped in! Also, the fabric does not have that much body to it so they are a little stiff. But I’m glad I have a good fitted trouser pattern now that I can adapt to other styles.


And I’m so into the shape of the pockets!


And because the outside should be as pretty as the inside, I used a ‘Hong Kong’ finish on the side seams with some nice satin binding.


The closure is a lapped zip in the side seam with a spring snap. For the construction order, I followed this amazing lapped zipper tutorial from Closet Case Patterns – as I did for some shorts I made last year.


And talking of Closet Case Patterns, I also made another Kalle shirt – which I’ve untucked here so you can see it better. This is my third version of this pattern (hello number 1 and number 2). I adapted the neckline slightly for this one so it sits flat – it is a sort of bias binding sandwich finish! I love the pairing of the yellow buttons and the red fabric – some classic Atelier Brunette ‘Bye Bye Birdie’ fabric I bought a few years ago in Paris and which I’ve been keeping for something special ever since. Well, you can’t take fabric with you, so I decided to stop hoarding it and that this was as good a time as any to use it. I really like it and hopefully I’ll get a lot of wear out of it.



And if you are wondering what the title of this post is all about then it’s time to read some Edwin Morgan poetry!